New Year’s Eve in Bangkok

It’s funny how things work out. I had a New Year’s Eve post planned based on how I thought tonight would go. I should know better. This year, I have the good luck to ring in the New Year in Bangkok, Thailand, a full 12 hours ahead of my loved ones in Ontario. I typically spend the night hunkered down at home with loved ones, but I can’t very well sit in my hotel watching Thai TV with take-out, so I had to figure out where to go. I decided to check out the festivities on the Chao Phraya riverbank at Wat Arun, the Temple of Dawn.

Yesterday as I explored the temple, a small army of workers were getting the area ready. Wat Arun was covered in a maze of trip-you-up wires and cables and lights. Speakers were everywhere and a huge platform floated on the river in front of the temple. To further lend to the celebratory feel, an old Thai-style market was set up in Nagaraphirom Park.

“I had a New Year’s Eve post planned, based on how I thought tonight would go.
I should know better.”

I set out at about 8:00, only to find the river ferries don’t run in the evening. I knew that, but stupidly thought there would be an exception on this night where the city had splashed out for a major show. There was live music, and after the countdown, a fireworks display was to light up the temple in a dazzling display. The number of pyrotechnics had special meaning. 2,016 represents the global New Year, 2,559 mark the Buddhist Year, and 999 pay homage to the King of Thailand, for a total of 5,574.

What I hoped to see at Wat Arun. Courtesy of AFP / CHRISTOPHE ARCHAMBAULT

After this 10 minute display, a 45-minute multi-media display was to be projected onto the stupa of Wat Arun. This is what I was really looking forward to. I imagined beautiful photos, and if the people flooding the streets were any indication, this would have been a fun event with lots of energy.

Unfortunately, my poor planning left me scrambling for other plans. There really was no other option for getting to Wat Arun, as the streets were jam packed, making a cab out of the question.

I considered my options. Asiatique, an upscale market/mall also holds a countdown with live performances– and I figured I could walk there in about 20 mins. On to Plan B. 10 mins into my journey, a motorcycle taxi approached. 60 baht to Asiatique. As I really had no clue where I was heading, it seemed a bargain. Helmetless and already doubting my decision, I climbed on to the back of the bike.

One of three photos I took at Asiatique. I couldn’t wait to get out of there.

I’d read that it’s inappropriate to hold on to the driver’s waist, so I gripped the small bar at the back of the bike as we took off. Dear god, what had I gotten myself into? We wove in and out traffic, through the opposite lane, flying over speedbumps like Evil Knievel, ignoring lights and cops. I can only imagine what the driver thought as my thighs held tight to him in a death grip and my chest bounced against his back. I’m certain holding on to his waist would have been considerably less… intimate. We drove for a white-knuckled 15 mins, winding in and out of back streets, over sidewalks, through a dirt path. Just as I started to wonder if he was going to take me somewhere and kill me, I saw the lights! Asiatique! I felt guilty for doubting. He explained that the main road turns into a one-way, which is why all the twists and turns. I wondered how I would find my way home.

I entered the Asiatique main gate with hundreds of other Thais. We all walked through a metal detector like at the airport, as it screamed a continuous angry beep and flashed red. It seems wearing metal was a prerequisite for entry. On the other side of the gate a dozen militia men stood watching us as we entered. For the second time in 10 minutes I doubted the intelligence of Plan B.

Asiatique Skyline as I rode the ferry away

I wandered around Asiatique for approximately 12 minutes. I hated it. Everything catered to, as best I can tell, a young Thai population. It must have been just me, though, as the thousands there seemed to be enjoying themselves. Mind you, there were all young Asian folks! I pushed my way through to the back of the building and came out by the river. A boat!! My hope grew. Then crashed. The boat only goes as far as my hotel river stop. What the heck? Don’t they know there’s a big event just up the river? I took three photos to prove I was there and hopped on the ferry.

As I meandered through the streets packed with people, cars, food stalls, and more motorcycles than I ever imagined, I reflected on my failed plans. I was looking at a night alone in my hotel. Not the worst fate I can imagine, as I tend to prefer a quiet night in to ring in the new year, but the alone part did leave something to be desired.

Ringing in the New Year with new friends

I got back to the hotel and was greeted by the owner and designer. He was having a party with 30ish friends and family. He made me a plate of food– Peking duck, roast pork and rice– and handed it to me with a smile. It was the most heartwarming thing, to be included in their celebrations. We chatted about his unique hotel concept and Bangkok, when a couple entered. He introduced them as fellow Canadians. I sat and chatted with Rick and Lorraine for hours. They were on an epic journey, and it just so happened that they had just done my trip in reverse, so I got tips on things to miss and a few places to go. We had some laughs and chatted about life and travel and the hours flew by.

At 11:45, we were invited up to the rooftop to watch the fireworks over Wat Arun. And I didn’t even have to leave my hotel. I did miss the light show on the temple, which would have made for some great eye candy. Instead you get a tale of unexpected surprises and new-found friends, and perhaps my most wonderful New Year’s yet. Not a bad way to start off 2016.