The Ayutthaya night market is a lively affair with a good range of stalls, most selling prepared food, but you’ll also find clothing and electronics. It lines one side of the street along Bang Lan Road, very close to Wat Mahathat, and is an easy, pleasant walk from the heart of town. The market is open nightly from 5-10 pm. I was there from about 6-8 and things were in full swing.
The food stalls are numerous and varied. There are lots of curries, meats on sticks, sausages, and of course, sweets. It’s also the first place I’ve seen bugs for sale. Pass.
The only thing I couldn’t find is mango and sticky rice, which I was craving. I instead chose from a number of dishes, which turned out to be a protein-centric feast. I tried a pork satay, mini sausages, an incredible roast/fried pork cut, almost a cross between a belly and shoulder. It was crispy, greasy, juicy perfection. I had a pure orange juice and a waffle for dessert. And just for good measure, I grabbed a coconut ice cream on the way home. Note that there is no seating unless you buy from the vendors within the seating area. You will get chased off if you plop down there, as I did. The grand total of my feast was 82 baht, or about $3 CDN. My best bargain yet.
I also came across some bright pink eggs again. Curious, I asked around until someone was able to explain them to me. The Thai man joked with me that they were from pink chickens, but I finally got the truth out of him. They are called century eggs or thousand-year-old eggs and are preserved according to a very old tradition in clay, salt, quicklime and rice hulls. They may be pretty on the outside, but are black and gelatinous inside. I wasn’t feeling that adventurous.
The crowd was predominantly Thai, but a good number of foreigners were also enjoying the fare. Although the vendors were busy, they graciously agreed to photos when there was a lull in the business. Typically Thai, the crowds were polite and patient. No elbows to the ribs here.
As I found a bench to sit on a bit away from the market, a young Thai boy appeared and watched me intently. I offered him food. He shook his head. He rambled away at me in Thai. I answered in English that I couldn’t understand him, but he kept going, perhaps happy for an audience. As we smiled goodbyes, I headed back to the market for a second look.
The walk home was uneventful. No sign of the legions of rats I saw on my first night here, but it was earlier and there were still a number of people out and about. I was followed for a bit by another dog, but he kept his distance and seem to be in a more pleasant mood than one of the dogs I had encountered the night before. I was a little concerned about smelling like meat, given my dinner, so I was happy his interest was fleeting.
If you’re considering a day trip to Ayutthaya from Bangkok to see the ruins, why not spend the night and take in this wonderful market? It’s simple, but energetic, and the eats are great! I don’t think you will be disappointed. And you’ll have the added bonus of missing the packs of daytrippers that set out for the ruins if you start your sightseeing early enough.
To read about another activity not often visited by tourist, check out my post on the Ayutthaya Floating Market and theatre.
