Ayutthaya Floating Market

When researching Ayutthaya before I left Canada, one thing I knew I wanted to see was the water theatre at the Ayutthaya Floating Market. The photos I saw looked so beautiful– a platform built just below the water’s surface holds the actors as they splash through battle scenes, perhaps winning the love of a beautiful woman. It looked magical. All the info I read indicated that the theatre was only held on the weekends, so I made sure to arrive on a Sunday. It turns out the theatre is now open daily from 10-9.

I dropped my bags at my hotel and hopped on a motorbike taxi to take me to the location just on the edge of town. It cost 50 baht, which is about half of what a tuk-tuk costs– when they’re not ripping you off! Plus the motorbike is so much more fun.

The first thing I saw as we approached was elephant riding. My heart sank. But I was there now. No turning back. I turned away from the elephant rides and followed the throngs of Thai visitors, entering the floating market on the right-hand side of the road. I paid the entrance fee of 200 baht and entered. I had read that years ago the entrance fee included a buffet. I didn’t see any sign of this and don’t believe it exists any longer. There is no shortage of food at the 200+ stalls to indulge in, though. You won’t leave hungry.

I meandered along the pathway with the other tourists. I got some double takes. Throughout the entire day, I could count on both hands the non-Thai tourists. But typical of the Thai behaviour I’d already experienced, people were nothing but gracious, friendly and kind. Strangely, at this tourist destination, I felt less of a tourist than I did in Bangkok. It was wonderful sitting back and watching the Thai people enjoying the long weekend, not working, not catering to tourists, just families laughing, eating, enjoying themselves.

As I stumbled upon the first food area, my stomach was growling. I had expected to grab something to eat at the train station earlier that day, but I had no time. I was happy for it now, as I scouted out all the amazing food. I took a seat and two young Thai servers came and sat with me, helping me choose from the menu. While the menu has some photos and translations, most of the market is written in Thai. This is not a place designed with farangs in mind. But with my three Thai phrases, a big smile and charades, I had no problem. A great thing about the market catering to Thais is that all the prices are reasonable. They are marked and you know you are not paying too much.

My spicy papaya salad and fried chicken wings came and they were both delicious. The wings were huge and had a spicy sauce I couldn’t place, maybe tamarind. Certainly the colour fit. It was spicy, but not too spicy, and the wings were piping hot and juicy. Phenomenal. As I was eating, the theatre started! Boats carrying the actors moved down the river, enticing the crowd, working them up. The costumes were reminiscent of ancient Siam and the warriors were theatrical and dramatic, spitting fire and shouting war cries.

The entire production was in Thai, so I couldn’t follow along, but from what I was able to surmise, there was a battle based on one of the battles with Burma at Ayutthaya. This show was in the pavilion in the middle of the complex. It was covered and had several rows of benches for the audience, and people lined the aisles trying to get a good view. I stood stage left and watched the action. There was lots of death, blood and shouting, but it was mixed with comedy, and the crowd ate it up. Collective gasps erupted from the audience when a young boy was slain. They were invested. I enjoyed it immensely.

After the show, I had time to have a better look around. This market is not the typical floating market with boats selling goods at the water’s edge. It is a big complex. 200+ stalls, and they are laid out around a central waterway. Bridges cross over, connecting the laneways. It is beautifully laid out, everything in a dark wood, likely teak. The walkways are covered, keeping the hot sun at bay. Trees and plants add a lush jungle feel. Boats carry tourists for rides up the river for 20 baht, but there are only a few and the smell of diesel isn’t pervasive, nor the sound of motors distracting.

This market was wonderful. This was touristy, but it was authentically Thai. The stalls were loaded with toys, clothing and accessories, beautiful local handicrafts, replica swords, and food, so much food. Stall after stall sold every manner of Thai sweet. Crispy duck, fried chicken, barbecued fish, and many things I couldn’t place. I loved taking photos of the unfamiliar foods and the vendors were very happy to oblige. I still get smiles when I ask in my butchered Thai, but no one has said no. In fact, people seem eager to let me, even if a lot of them are shy once the camera is turned on them. I can understand that feeling completely.

I did come across several animal attractions that were disturbing, but a common part of Thai life. I’ve seen variations at a lot of places– photos with snakes, monkey shows, flying squirrels. This market also had a goat pen where kids paid 20 baht to feed them grass, and some koi in a pond that you could feed with a baby bottle. Definitely weird. There were bags of fish food to be bought on the honour system for 10 baht that could be fed to the enormous fish in the water.

The next show was about to start. The actors did the circuit by boat, but this time the action was happening at the water’s edge. The platform was visible and I wondered if the water level was low. It did look as if it might be. Once the action started, it didn’t matter. It was equally engaging and dramatic, but this time had the setting sun in the background and the smoke from the fires lent fabulous atmosphere to the backdrop. We all watched it intently until nearly everyone was dead. Another great performance. I ordered a lemon juice and made my way back to the guesthouse, full and happy. Today was my best day in Thailand so far. The combination of culture, history, Thai charm and plain old fun were all wrapped up in a perfect day.

The Ayutthaya floating market can be found about a 10-minute motorcycle taxi ride from the city. I had no problem catching a motorbike taxi back at the end of the day.