My first time in New Orleans happened by chance when I was 24. I liked it so much that a 3-day trip turned into nearly three months. Since then, I’ve been back several times and it never gets old. One of the most magical neighbourhoods in the city is the Garden District. Giant ancient Live Oak trees tower above the streets, creating much-welcome shade with their dense canopy of branches. The mansions with their wrap-around porches, tall wrought-iron fences and amazing landscaping give it a wonderful old-world feel.
On that first trip, I was reading one of Anne Rice’s books, I think it might have been The Vampire Lestat or maybe The Witches. Rice describes some of her locations so clearly, so beautifully, that I was able to wander around those neighbourhoods and find her locations. It thrilled me, imagining the stories of otherworldly beings behind the walls of those houses. It was wonderfully romantic.
Years later, when I brought my son to the city for the first time, we took a guided tour of the Garden District. It was interesting to learn about the neighbourhood from a local. She offered history of the area, stories of the magnificent old houses, pointed out mansions owned by actors and writers, and taught us about the plants and flowers growing everywhere. We stepped into the majestic Lafayette Cemetery and heard about the unique burial practices of the region and why they were so. She told us about movies that were filmed in New Orleans’ cemeteries. It was the highlight of the tour for my son.
A relaxing way to see the neighbourhood and also take in a piece of history is to ride the St. Charles streetcar. It’s a bargain at $1.25 and will ride through the length of the Garden District along historic St. Charles Ave. If you’re staying near the French Quarter, you can catch it at Canal and Bourbon Streets. Transit in New Orleans is ultra-affordable, so hopping off when you see something that catches your fancy is highly recommended. New Orleans transit offers a $3 day pass, which allows you on all the streetcars and busses, not just the St. Charles line. It’s a great deal.
My trip in August of 2015 saw the St. Charles line closed temporarily for construction of some new sewer lines. That will be ongoing until September 5, 2015. It was not a problem, however. The streetcar let us off at the Erato stop, where a very crowded bus was waiting to continue our trip along St. Charles Ave.
If you’re looking for a place to eat in the Garden District and have a few bucks to spend, check out Commander’s Palace. It’s a world-renowned restaurant in the charming turquoise and white striped landmark that has been around since 1880. It boasts a ridiculous number of culinary awards.
A more casual spot also worth looking at is Mahony’s Po-Boy, which boasts New Orleans best po-boy, although not my favourite. Our hands-down favourite is Acme in the Quarter for the oyster po-boy, and we’ve tried more than a few. We also popped into the charming Deville Coffee House and Creperie at 2050 Magazine St. for a giant lemonade. Gotta stay hydrated down south. I don’t think I ever sweat as much as when in New Orleans. Well, maybe Texas.
Don’t miss a stroll through the Garden District when you’re in New Orleans. Although it is only a streetcar ride away, it is a world removed from the French Quarter, and like most of the city, has much beauty and a unique history to share. Whether you take a tour or not, meander through the neighbourhoods and soak up the flavour. And put a smile on your face! The locals are friendly!
