New Brunswick, Canada Seafood – The Good, The Bad, The Toxic

I went to New Brunswick with every intention on gorging myself on as much fresh seafood as I could manage– and I did a pretty good job of it. I ate three– yes, three– lobster rolls at my aunt’s one Saturday, feasted on salmon and fiddleheads at my uncle’s, had restaurant feeds of mussels cooked in wine and scallops pan seared with an orange glaze. I took scallops, fiddleheads and four lobsters home to my Ontario family and we got drippy and messy and feasted around my mom’s kitchen table.

Lobster Rolls and Homemade Cherry Wine ( I ate 3!)

The one area I was let down with, though, was the clams. That’s not to say I didn’t have the best fried clams of my life at a little cabin on Eel River Bar. I did, and I’m still thinking about them. Those clams alone would draw me back east.

“Those clams alone would draw me back”

 

Best Fried Clams Ever from Eel River Bar

Where I was disappointed was in my hopes of digging some clams for a clam bake. I was hoping to hop in my Uncle Bill’s truck, drive out when the tides were low, get our shovels in the sand and dig for our dinner. I hadn’t done it since I was very young, shovel and pail in hand, and probably more of a hindrance than a help as my grandfather and uncle collected our dinner.

I looked forward to the campfire where the briny smell of the clams and the sweet smell of corn got my tummy excited for dinner. Heck, I even brought my rubber boots with me!

Lobster Feast at Mom’s

But when I got east, I found out that the simple summer pleasure of treasure hunting for clams on the beach was no longer an option. The clams have all become toxic. What? How does this happen? It nearly broke my heart.

I did some digging. In the Northern New Brunswick area where I was, the most popular place to dig clams is Eel River Bar, a long narrow sand bar with freshwater Eel River on one side, and the saltwater Eel Bay on the other. It’s a popular summer beach spot with locals, and I noticed a nice collection of cottages for rent in the area.

Eel River Bar

It seems the problem lies with a damn that was built on Eel River. The dam was built in 1963, certainly many years before I was out in my waterwings and pail and bucket, but over time, the effects from the dam caused significant erosion and lack of water to the area, poisoning the animal life with runoff from the area’s paper mill. The good news is the dam was removed in 2011. Word is that the area is improving, but the government’s testing of the shellfish still reports them as unsafe. I hope in time that generations to come can enjoy the simple pleasures of digging for clams with their little ones.

Filling up on Salmon and Fiddleheads

The good news is that if you have access to a boat, nearby Heron Island is safe for clamming. If you can, please roll up your pants, throw on your boots, and get at ‘er. Even if you don’t like clams, the experience alone is worth it.

Now I think I’m going to head out to my local fishmonger and see if he can hook me up. Maybe I’ll have a clambake this weekend with my son. And I think I’ll wear my rubber boots!