You’ve got to weigh the good with the bad, or the bad with the good, as my title would suggest. The two days I spent in Quebec were wet. So wet, in fact, that on one of the busiest days of the summer, there were virtually no tourists to be found. The good. Rain so hard, so relentless, that it began to rain inside my umbrella! The bad. Most of my shots from that day, as I struggled to keep my camera relatively dry, look like these—
Umbrella shots of Old Quebec
But rain or not, there’s no arguing that Old Quebec’s Upper and Lower towns are charming, friendly and definitely worth a visit. I didn’t mind trudging around, juggling bags, camera and umbrella, feeling at once soggy, sweaty and chilly.
I did avoid the nicer shops, as I was a dripping mess, but I did pop in and out of several, grabbing treats, a warm drink, and a foodie gift or two along the way. And I had to stop for poutine while in the official poutine province of Canada. In case you haven’t heard of poutine yet– and if not, where have you been? It seems to be the hot comfort food right now– it is concoction of french fries (homemade are best), gravy (ditto on the homemade) and fresh cheese curds, so fresh they squeak when you bite them. The cheese gets all melty and the whole thing becomes a gooey mess that sits like a brick in my belly after I eat it, but boy, is it good going down!
Poutine, a French Canadian classic
Arriving for Canada Day, I was warmed to see the military show outside of City Hall. We Canadians are not necessarily vocal about our patriotism, but I don’t think there’s one of us who doesn’t fiercely love this country. And if there is anyone out there who doesn’t feel that way, I urge you to travel.
Canada Day Celebrations at City Hall
The Upper and Lower Towns are very easy to get around on foot. If you aren’t good with stairs, take the funicular for $2.25. It is a type of railway that joins the Upper and Lower town, kind of like an elevator, and was first used in 1879. I hopped on it to get out of the rain for a minute. It’ll bring you to the heart of both the Upper and Lower Towns in a short ride.
The Funicular
Quebec is one of the oldest settled areas in Canada. The architecture in the Old Towns is unlike what you’ll find in most of Canada, and makes you feel like you’ve travelled to a quant European hamlet. In fact, I even found myself calculating the cost in Canadian currency while shopping. It was a happy surprise to remember that things didn’t cost more!
Quebec is the only remaining fortified city in Canada or the USA. There is wall that surrounds most of Old Quebec, which is a World Heritage Site. There are four imposing gates left standing at various entrances. The ramparts run along the cliffs overlooking the St. Lawrence River. It’s a beautiful walk, even on a rainy day.
One of four gates leading into Old Quebec
If you follow the winding cobblestone streets through the Lower Town, you will find the market at 160, Quai Saint-André. It’s a good place to get out of the elements, stroll around, try a crepe, and take a load off. Strawberries were in season during my trip and the entire building smelled of fresh, ripe, juicy berries. I couldn’t resist and ordered a crepe with strawberries from one of the local vendors. It was sublime!
At the back of the market I happened upon a shop unlike any other. Called la Route des Indes, this jam-packed store had so many quality, hard-to-find products. It was like a treasure hunt seeing what I could find. The spice wall alone was incredible. This is something a girl from a town with no ethnic shopping gets excited about! I bought some agar agar to make balsamic “caviar”, some galangal that it’s taken me a year and a half to track down for my Thai dishes, an assortment of spices, and some specialty vinegars.
Offerings at the market. Silkworm pupa, anyone?
One product unique to the area that makes a great souvenir or gift is the ice cider. It is a similar concept to ice wine, and at the market you will find many producers selling their wares. Several producers have kiosks and are more than happy to give you samples of their products and explain the process. I bought a bottle of Bilodeau Cidrerie’s Ile d’Orleans Special Reserve ice cider to take home and it is phenomenal! Great for a special after-dinner treat.
If you like roadtrips and you’re within driving distance of Quebec City, why not give it a visit? You won’t be sorry. Summer or winter, it has plenty to offer every type of traveller, from the single gal, to families, to a romantic getaway, for young and old alike. I certainly won’t be waiting as long to visit Quebec City again.
